Hem Designer Jeans with Original Stitching

You Can Have the Designer Look AND the Right Length

When you purchase jeans that are too long you have two options: wear them until they fray themselves to the correct length (a choice popular with middle school students) or hem them.

The problem with hemming them is that you could lose the designer look you just paid too much money for by hemming in a way that screams, “MOM WAS HERE!” But there is a way to hem designer jeans and retain the original stitching.

Step 1: Mark the Desired Length

Mark the ideal jean length by turning up the hem on one leg. Make sure you measure while wearing a typical pair of shoes.

Sit down and cross your legs. Make sure your desired length is still long enough.

Now mark the bottom of the jeans with a pin.

Step 2: Allow for Error

Open up the jeans and note where you put the pin.

Put another pin half an inch below this one . . . just in case. This is your new goal length. (If you are super confident, you can skip this step, but I've learned that there is always a different pair of shoes that won't work if you don't allow a little extra space.)

Step 3: Mark Your Goal Length with Chalk

Make sure your jeans are flat. Pin them together so they won't move.

Now, using a ruler, mark the desired length along the entire hem of the jeans.

Step 4: Cut Jeans at the Goal Length

It's okay - go ahead and cut your jeans at the goal length.

You will be adding the factory hem at the bottom, so you don't need to allow for the seam on this end. I promise.
 
First pin your jean's leg, so that it will not move as you are cutting through it. Make sure to match the inseam and outer seam.

When the leg is flat and pinned, go ahead and cut.

Step 5: Use Leg #1 as a Pattern, and Cut Leg #2

Match up both legs. Make sure they really match - check the inseams.

Pin the inseam, so the legs won't move.

 Make sure both legs are laying flat. Pin them together.

Now, use leg #1 as a pattern, and cut leg #2 so that it is the same length.

Step 6: Mark 5/8" above Original Hem

Caution: measure from the big bump, not the pretty stitching.

Do this for both legs of the jeans.

Step 7: Cut on Your Mark

Cut on the mark 5/8" above the original hem.

Do this on both legs of the jeans.

Discard the scrap material.

Step 8: Pin the raw edges together

Pin the two raw edges together. Make sure to pin them right sides together and match both side seams.

Do this on both legs of the jeans.

NOTE: You must keep the pieces of the left leg together and the pieces of the right leg together. Otherwise the side seams will not match.

Step 9: Stitch Close to Original Hem

On each leg of the jeans, stitch the two pieces together using a thread color that closely matches your jeans.

Make sure to stitch as closely as possible to the original hem.
 
NOTE: This works best using a zipper foot.

Step 10: Serge Raw Edges

Using a serger, serge raw edges together. If you don't have a serger, zig zag tightly instead.

Do this on both legs.

Step 11: Topstich New Seam

In order flatten the new seam and make it difficult to see, carefully match the side seams so that they will lay as flat as possible.

Now topstich the new seam as closely as possible to the original hem.

You may need a zipper foot for this step as well.

Step 12: Stitch Side Seams

The final step is a little tricky.

You will sew up one side, across, and down the other side of each side seam.
This keeps the new seam tight against the jeans even after washing and wearing.

However the sides seams are very thick at this point.
Make sure you have a study needle.

If one side is difficult (which happens quite often), just stitch across the top.

You may prefer to topstich this step.

TA DA!

You now have designer jeans that are both the correct length and have all original stitching.